In March 2022, I flew to Dubai on an Emirates plane packed with sunseekers, most of whom were more interested in cocktails on the beach than politics.
My trip, paid for by the Dubai tourist board, was intended as an investigation into the Jewish community in the emirate. The Abraham Accords had recently been signed, heralding new “normalised” relations with Israel.
Direct flights to and from Tel Aviv had launched, and I had seen footage of significant endorsement of Jewish symbols, such as a massive menorah at the foot of the Burj Khalifa, and even the…